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 Post subject: cam and lever
PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 1:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 9:44 pm
Posts: 4
Greetings Brockway enthusiasts.
I am restoring a 1954 model 155w.
Opening the steering box, I see I need to replace the cam follower as one of the round guides is flattened. I could use the guts from a donor or a whole unit.
Trade or purchase.
The chassis is blasted and coated with saver and I'm ready to go through the steering components.
Response is greatly appreciated.
Ross TA66299
benji


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 Post subject: Re: cam and lever
PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2005 9:59 am
Posts: 2336
Location: Daleville, PA
Hi nothingnew...

I am familiar with the TA66 box but unfortunately don't have any spare parts right now. Is your box and steering column 1 piece? Any 100 series Brockway of that vintage should have that style box on it.

Here is a link to a manual I used to adjust mine...

http://www.hansenwebdesign.com/truck/fi ... eering.pdf

Tom

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Tom Millard
http://www.HUSKIDRIVE.com


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 Post subject: Re: cam and lever
PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 9:44 pm
Posts: 4
Thanks for responding.
My unit has a u-joint to the steering column.
I pulled the steering box and column from my 152W carcass in the woods (no u-joint all one unit)
The innards are greatly different. Put it back together.
Wondering how sloppy it would be if I just put it back together the way it is. Drove it around the woods but never on the street. I'm thinking the wear on one lobe and not the other may be from that slight back and forth thing we do when keeping her straight on the road.
I really don't want to put bad parts together so I guess I'll keep dragging the scrap yards.
Another hard to find item will be new motor mounts for the 427 continental. I may have to get crafty with a hack saw and some block rubber.
Thanks again
attached is an image of what it looked like when I dragged it home.
benji


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 Post subject: Re: cam and lever
PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 2:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2005 9:59 am
Posts: 2336
Location: Daleville, PA
That's interesting that your setup has a u-joint between the steering column and the steering box. I thought that change didn't come out until the later 50's or so.

Can you share the serial number? It's also interesting that your headlights are on the fenders. The earlier 155W's and 255W's had them mounted on 2" angle mounts off of the frame. 99% of the other models had them on the fenders just like your pic.

Were your doors all steel or wood filled?

Tom

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http://www.HUSKIDRIVE.com


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 Post subject: Re: cam and lever
PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 7:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 9:44 pm
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The image is from ten years ago just after I had rolled it off the tilt bed.
No floor to be seen. There is a ledge on each (threshold) that indicates some kind of floor was inset but no screw holes. No wood in the doors, so it may be a few years later than I was told. Came with no title. It was a Livingston county truck. The geniuses stretched it 15" so they could overload the poor thing, and put a 5th wheel on it. I cut it back down to the original 135-1/2" , moved the spring hangers back to the proper holes.
Notice the off color fenders? Who knows if they had been switched. You could be right about the head lamp placement. I have acquired a beautiful set of fenders of the same vintage to replace them. Cab has hinged rear corner vent windows, curved plastic. Air breather is under the hood as you can see by the round screen in the hood. Has Brockway heater!
Found a great source for fiber hand brake shoes and pads not far from me if any one is needing.

Frame...155W-20-135 1/2-55759
Serial no. off the dash 155w-20-55759
trans..first letter is obliterated..? -A-430
trans serial... 1811264
PTO ....in upper left corner of tag
Rear member...huge cast steel, air actuated 2 speed
Which reminds me...I will be looking for Budd style hubs.
Chassis is looking good, getting close to hanging leaf springs.
Turning my own bushings and doing all of the machining.
If you know anyone who needs machining, I'm open for business. Preferably if they have trading material. Different compensations are considered.
I have a small foundry and have been into blacksmithing and fabrication for over 30 years now.
My cab need a lot of love but it's going to be solid and beautiful. The chassis should roll before the snow falls and I will pick at the sheet metal work on days home from over the road flatbed trucking.
The 427 cont. is painted cub cadet yellow and the trans is machine gray. Both plugged off and blasted before hand. Epoxy primer.
The rear member is yet to be prepped for paint. Rigging a pneumatic wheeled dolly to get it into the blasting booth. Drained the goo from it, which was unbelievably clean, so with that hint I won't pull the cover as it did not leak. I can always do an in frame on it if I hear any noise on the smooth road.
Pulled out half the leaf springs on the rear and the fronts were over built also.
It want's to end up being a oversize pick up truck. Nothing heavy. Looking very Brockway.
Thanks for what ever you can throw my way.
benji


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 Post subject: Re: cam and lever
PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 7:42 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2005 9:59 am
Posts: 2336
Location: Daleville, PA
Hi benji...

Let me see if I can help a little bit...

>Frame...155W-20-135 1/2-55759
>Serial no. off the dash 155w-20-55759

Based on the serial number, 155w-20-55759, I believe your truck is a 1958. I have 1958 listed from 55500 to 56199. My '55 is 155W-10-52856 and the original TA-66 steering box had the integral column. I replaced it with a TA-66 box with a u-joint from a 1958 155W parts truck (serial number 55608)

>trans..first letter is obliterated..? -A-430

The full number is 5A430. This is an 5 speed Fuller and 5th gear is overdrive. If you notice, your fifth gear is towards the dash. That means its an overdrive. If was was back towards the seat, it would be a direct drive trans, or model 5A43. I have an older Fuller book dated 1965. The 5A43 and 5A430 were for 'Approximate motor size, 6 cylinder gasoline engines 430 cu in. This is for use only as a guide in making preliminary selections.' So the 5A33 and 5A330 were for 330 cu in motors, 5A62 and 5A620 were for 620 cu in motors, etc...

Hear are the gear ratios for both trans...

5A430 6.52 3.33 1.77 1.00 0.771
5A43 8.03 4.61 2.46 1.41 1.00

> Rear member...huge cast steel, air actuated 2 speed

Your rear is an Eaton 2 speed. I believe the model number is 20501 or 20503 but these are Brockway numbers, not Eaton. They had (3) gear options, including 5.43/7.39, 6.14/8.66 and 6.71/9.13. I had the 6.71 ration but was able to find a set of 5.43's for it. It you look at the head of the pinion, the ring and pinion numbers will be stamped there. Divide these out to get the high ratio of your rear.

>I have acquired a beautiful set of fenders of the same vintage to replace them.

They may have relocated the headlights to the fenders by 1958. I'll have to take a look at the fenders that came with my '58 parts truck.

>Cab has hinged rear corner vent windows, curved plastic.

These rear windows came standard on the 155W's.

>Air breather is under the hood as you can see by the round screen in the hood.

Both my '55 and '58 had the air cleaners under the hood. I have paperwork with my '55 that says it went back to the dealer in '58 and had a new Zenith carb and air cleaner installed.

>Has Brockway heater!

The square heater was actually made by Evans and it has an oval Brockway tag on the front.

Hope this info helped! If you have any other questions I would be glad to help...

I may have a front axle with buds for sale but it's pretty rusty.

Tom

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Tom Millard
http://www.HUSKIDRIVE.com


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 Post subject: Re: cam and lever
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 9:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 9:44 pm
Posts: 4
Thanks Tom
1958 it is.
Very helpful info.
Stump pulling ratios in that rear of mine!
At least it's an overdrive trans.
It will likely take me 3 hours to get to Cortland from Cohocton and burn all 60 gallons too.
Nah..it's only 70 something miles.
I'll be in touch.
What do you want for the front axle?
By rusty do you mean the bearing surfaces too?
I don't need the axle really, just the hubs.
benji


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