I kept the ends long and then trial fit it in place. I wanted to center it on the exhaust and them trim the ends...





On a side note, even though the bar hangs down it is still fairly high and I shouldn’t have any clearance issues In fact the lowest part is still higher that my Dad’s 361 so I should be in good shape.

Once I marked and cut the edges to length, I dug out the pieces of the flaps I cut off from the flaps I put on my Dad’s truck. These are the flaps that Dane sell and I really like the quality, very heavy duty. I had 14” stainless weights that my Dad bought me many years ago, so I dug them out and then cut the flaps to length...





My original through was to hang the flap from the bottom of the bar, but I wasn’t sold on it. The bottom of the fender stops right at the bottom of the tank, and I figured my bar would get sand blasted. And a 1 3/4" bar along with a 2” angle to mount the flap would be too much of a red painted surface. So I decided to mount the flap on the front of the bar...

In the meantime I fabricated the brackets that would mount the bar in place. I used 2” x 3/16” angle and drilled 3/4” holes so that I could bolt it to the fuel tank mounts. Once the brackets were done I welded them to the bar...



In lieu of welding nuts to the bar to hold the flaps, I decided to use 5/16x18 rivnuts from McMaster Carr. I bought steel ones since I was worried about thread issues using aluminum ones. We started by drill the holes...



And then installed the rivnuts...





And this is what I was after...



More to follow...

Before I reinstalled the bar I assembled the 90’s along with 1/4 turn ball valve so that I could isolate the tanks. I will be shortening the handles on these valves but for now this is where I’m at...





I reinstalled the bar on the truck one more time and in this pic you can just see the top of the 90 degree fitting...



At that point I marked the bar and drilled 1/4" holes to mount isolation clamps to hold the #10 line. Then the bar went back on again and was able to cut the Aeroquip lines to length and install fittings on each end. Basically I have both tanks to a T fitting and the T fitting is then run to the supply side of the fuel pump. And here is the finished products...



Well that’s it for now!!!

Well we’re getting pretty close to starting this thing up! As luck would have it I found a guy 10 minutes from where I work that just started power and ceramic coating. He did a set of mid 30’s Ford wire wheels for a guy I work with and they came out great so I gave him a call to talk about my project. I wanted to have the exhaust ceramic coated but then figured I would also get a price from him to black powder coat to other parts I had. Then I wouldn’t have to take a bunch of things apart in the spring to paint them. So I wound up removing all the exhaust I made as well as a handful of brackets for the aftercooler, fuel pump. I also removed the radiator shroud I made...



I dropped the parts of and a week later I was able to pick up the power coated pieces (the ceramic exhaust pieces would take a bit longer...)



I also had the upper and lower water necks done. Once of the nice things about having them powder coated is that both the inside and outside gets coated. My original ones were started to rust on the inside...



The original water neck studs were pretty tired so I decided to make (4) new ones from the extra treaded rod I bought for my clutch linkage. I also made new cork gaskets. The thin black gasket material typically I use doesn’t really work well in this application.



Before I mounted the new necks, I decided to flush the radiator. I had this radiator re-cored about 3 years ago and it was fairly clean but I want to flush it regardless. I used the old water necks along with some PVC fittings and some brass garden hose adapters from the hardware store...



My Dad only ran a few gallons of water through it and that was all it needed to clean it out...



We let the radiator sit overnight until all the water was drained out of it and then reinstalled it along with the fan and power coated radiator shroud...



More to follow...

While I was waiting for the remaining exhaust parts, I tackled a few other items that needed to be done. First, I made a heat shield for the exhaust manifold and downpipe. These are fairly close to my firewall so now was the right time to build something. I had some polished 20 gauge stainless left over that my Dad bought probably 25 years ago at Carlisle. A guy had a bunch of these smaller sheet for a few bucks each. I used some of them for the license plate frames on the 155W, the 361 and the 761. This piece was a little scratched up so it was perfect for a heat shield.

I started with making a card board pattern and trail fitting it...





Once it fit well, I started cutting and bending the stainless...



It’s hard to see with the reflections but you get the idea. It’s a total of 3 pieces and shields part of the dog house and firewall...





More to follow...

After the radiator was installed with the water necks, I decided to make some changes to the upper and lower silicone hoses I made. For the top hose, it was a little too close to the fan so I decided to replace the middle section of silicone with a straight piece of stainless. I found a 12” piece of 1 3/4" .065” stainless on eBay for a few bucks. This worked out pretty well...





Due to the angle of the lower hose, the section that was slid over the water neck was starting to buckle. I am exaggerating it here but you get the idea...



The OD of the cast water neck was also larger than 2” and it was difficult to slide the 2” piece of it. I wound up buying a 2 1/4" to 2” reducer and this did the trick...



I help with the section that was starting to kink, I decided to use the reducer along with a 4” section of tubing. So back to eBay I went and found a 12” section of 2” .065” stainless. There are lots of different pieces of tubing on there that can be bought reasonably...



I reinstalled the revised lower water hose and then we filled the radiator with Fleet Charge antifreeze...

More to follow...

While working on the fuel lines I also realized that the ARP head studs were very close to the valve covers. It appeared that they may not allow the valve cover to be fully tightened. I did a little research on this and the most common solution was to mill two of the ribs on the inside of the cover. I also used a 3/4" end mill to add a little space to the outside of the cover. There is plenty of material here to mill and this definitely helped out with clearance...





For the outside of the cover, I rebuffed them with some white rough so it took the sharp edge off of the spot I milled.

I was looking on eBay for Cummins part and came across a diesel shop in Minnesota that had 5 of the 6 injector lines for my engine. After a few message back and forth they were able to locate the 6th line and gave me a great price on all 6. So I decided to buy the new lines sand replace my original ones...



These line actually fit better that the original ones even though they were direct replacements. Go figure... After an hour or work they were all done...



And here’s a quick aerial view of the new lines, minus the aftercooler and turbo...



More to follow...

This past Saturday we were able to pick up the ceramic coated exhaust pieces along with the 2 remaining fuel pump brackets I had coated...



We went ahead and reinstalled the BD exhaust manifold along with the spacers and the turbo. Once that was done we decided to wrap the down pipe. I bought DEI titanium exhaust wrap, a 50’ roll that was 1” wide along with some 4” stainless tie straps...



And wound up with this...



With the remaining wrap, I wrapped 12” of the pipe that comes out of the exhaust brake. This pipe is close to the starter so I felt it would be smart to wrap it...



Once both pipes we wrapped we reinstalled those as well...



Well that’s it for now!

Ok it’s time for a few updates...

Just checking...



Once the exhaust was reinstalled I started working on mounting the air filter. I did some research on what the Dodge pickup guys and found numerous posts on BHAF, or Big Honking Air Filters. The two most common are FIL 6637 which is 8.5" x 12.38" x 4" and FIL 2790 which is 10.5" x 11.8" x 4". The 2790 was too big in diameter so I decided on the 6637. Napa had it in stock so I purchased that filter along with an Outerwears # 20-1749 cover to protect it and prolong its life.

This filter has a 4” inlet which matches the S300 turbo so with a silicone 90 and a 4” SS coupler I was able to get it to fit and clear the hood. Here is just a mock up...



A friend of mine had a bead roller for tubing so I took off the 3” aluminum tube I made that connects the turbo to the aftercooler. He was able to bead roll each side for me...



Once that was done I reinstalled it and clocked all the clamps...



Now that everything was reinstalled we were finally ready to start the Cummins for the first time. The only thing I hadn’t finished was the radiator for the aftercooler. I knew the upcoming Saturday was going to be warm so I decided to hook up the pump temporarily and run cold water from a 5 gallon pail through the aftercooler.



I didn’t want to smoke out the garage so we decided to pull the truck outside. I jumped in the truck and my Dad used the winch on the 4 wheeler to pull the truck out...





After the truck had moved out of its resting spot from at least the last year, my Dad and Maddie spent some time sweeping up!!!



My friend Jeff who built the Cummins for me wanted to come over when we started it so with my Dad behind the wheel we started cracking away...



After cracking one of the injector lines loose to help purge the air, with just a little effort the motor started right up. Here is a short video of the truck running in the driveway...

https://youtu.be/IwRNQyzHxf8

More to follow...

Fortunately we only had one causality... We ran over my battery tender pulling the truck out of the garage. I would like to tell you this was the first time I had ran over a battery charger BUT.............



Everything seemed to be going well. We had good oil pressure and the water temperature was 180. But we quickly discovered a decent size oil leak right under the rear of the oil pan. At first we thought it was coming from the rear valve cover, and then maybe the side cover, and then maybe the last valve cover, but it appeared that it was a pressurized leak. Unfortunately it looked like it was the rear main seal... So after breaking the camshaft in as per the Hamilton instructions, we pulled the truck back into the garage (under it’s own power at least!) and decided to regroup at a later date...

After some research I was convinced it was either the rear main of the large soft plug directly behind the cam. In either case, the bell housing had to come off. To do this, we started by removing the wood floor, then the sheet metal floor, then the shift tower, then the clutch pedal, then the clutch pedal assembly, then we slid the trans back with the 4 wheeler jack, then we removed the clutch, and flywheel, and then we jacked up the rear of the motor using a floor jack with some support under the oil pan, and then finally we removed the bellhousing.

Once I loosened the bolts that held the bell housing on, a lot more oil started dripping on the floor. There are various machined areas on the back of the bell housing and it appeared that oil was pushed into these areas which in turn dripped down both sides of the rear mail seal. At that point I ordered a new rear main along with the cam plug. The following week I spent sledding in Lowville NY and by the time I got back the parts had arrived.

Jeff came over the following Saturday and after a much harder look it appeared the leak wasn’t from the rear main or the cam plug. There is a 11/16” freeze plug right above the cam plug that ties into a lifter gallery (and is pressurized...) Jeff decided to remove the plug and replace it with a pipe plug. After carefully drilling the hole out and tapping it for 1/2" NPT, we also decided to replace the cam plug ‘just in case’... We had already gone that far. Some of the blocks were machined for a very thin o-ring directly behind the cam plug. Although my motor didn’t have that o-ring originally, it was machined for one. So pulled the cam plug out, added the o-ring and installed a new cam plug with some gray RTV.

For reference, the next two pics are where the oil was pooled on the motor...





And here is where the oil was pooled in the bell housing...



I spent the next two days putting enough stuff together just to fire it up. After running it for 10 minutes it look like the leak was fixed. But I also discovered that you should have the shift tower on the trans before you start it. But that’s a story for another day...

More to follow...

One of the next big things to tackle was the mounting of the radiator that would be used to cool the aftercooler. A friend of mine gave this to me hoping it would work on my truck.



After taking a handful of measurements it looks like it would work perfectly. So I decided to mount it under the front bumper and behind the license plate frame. I started by drilling 3/8” holes in the flat stock plate that sits behind the bumper brackets...



And then I made two brackets out of 1 1/2" x 1/4" flat stock. To help with air flow, I drilled a number of 1” holes in them as well...



To isolate the radiator from the brackets, I used Peterbilt exhaust bushings. I believe these isolate the stacks from the cab brackets. I found a set of 4 on eBay made by Energy Suspension, part number 90.9053G. The best part is that these are made in the USA...



To help cool the radiator, I bought a pair of 7” electric fans from FrozenBoost. I really don’t like the typical mounting kits that electric fans come with. The kits were push a piece of this square plastic through the core... So using some aluminum flat stock and angle I make a bracket that would sandwich the fans to the radiator. As a side note, this is a very rugged aluminum radiator...





And here is what the finished product looks like...



That’s it for now...

Tom
It's always a pleasure to read your posts . The work your doing is remarkable and truly an inspiration to keep working on my own projects. Thanks jim
P.S. Any sources on windshield gasket material for a 361?

Thanks Jim...

For the 361 windshield gasket, Restoration Specialities has everything...

For 3 piece windshield (center and 2 corners), total length 15'
Restoration Specialities and Supply, Inc 814-467-9842
Windshield Gasket - 15' total AS-1216 $2.25 per foot
Locking Strip - 15' total AS-937A $0.75 per foot
Center division Bar  2 pieces totals 200200 $13.50 each

Tom

Your workmanship is fantastic, you set a benchmark for others to follow!

Nice work Tom! Too bad about the oil leak. I've had it happen on engines I've done and it's always a big let down after the emotional high of a first start up. Glad you've got it fixed. When is the maiden voyage?

Thanks for everyone's comments!!!

After the radiator and fans were mounted I moved on to the plumbing for the aftercooler. I did a ton of research on the best way to plumb the system finally stumbled on a build thread for a V8 Lotus...

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/v8 ... er-129177/

In this build, the owner added two Frozen Boost water to air aftercoolers to a twin turbo V8 Lotus. He had also posted this picture which was very helpful...



By studying this diagram I realized I needed to add an air purge line to help pull all the air out of the aftercooler. I then came up with this sketch for my truck...



To start off, I found a Moroso Radiator tank that had a 1/2" npt fitting on the bottom and a 3/8” npt fitting on the side. I figured this would work perfect since I could use the 1/2" fitting for the fill line and the 3/8” fitting for the air bleed. I bought the tank from Summit and was happt to see it was made in the USA. I then made a bracket to support it off of the new radiator shroud with some 1/8” plate steel...



Since it is almost to get behind the radiator shroud I wound up using a pair of ‘rivnuts’ or ‘nutserts’ to mount the tank...





More to follow...

At that point I started running all the hoses. For this project I decided to use 3/4" Parker push to lock hose. I realize I used Aeroquip AN lines on the rest of the motor but there was not enough room for all the fittings. I found a great deal on new 3/4" hose by the foot on eBay as well as a handful of fittings I needed. From the rear of the aftercooler, I ran the hose to a brass T fitting which I mounted off of the strut rod. From the top of the tee , which was higher than the aftercooler, I ran a #6 or 3/8” line over to the fill tank for the air bleed. You can see the upper hoses here, including ‘in’ and ‘out’ from the aftercooler, the tank fill line and the air bleed line...



On a side note, I ordered a handful of fittings from Discount Hydraulic in Philly. There prices are reasonable and they ship fairly quickly. One of the issues I ran into was running the 3/4” lines to the passenger side of the aftercooler radiator. I couldn’t make the bend into the 90 degree fittings I bought without kinking the hose. I really didn’t want to run tight brass 90’s since I wanted to maintain some type of flow...



I bought a pair of 3/4” 180 degree fittings but they wound up being too tight to the radiator...



After a little further digging I found these 90 degree male #12 to female #12 JIC fittings...



And combined with the 90 degree hose ends I had, they worked perfect...



More to follow...

For the water pump, I used a Bosch Cobra pump which is OEM on some of the later Mustangs. These are a nice compact pump that only draws about 3.5A. I really didn’t like the bracket that came with it so I decided to make one similar to the bracket I made for the turbo oil return hose on my Dad’s 361. I started with a piece of 18 gauge sheet metal and piece of rubber gasket material to use for isolation...



And I wound up with this bracket that allowed me to mount it on the driver side of the aftercooler radiator...



I also ran into an issue running one of the hoses to the water pump. I need to make a quick 90 degree turn, so I wound up buying two different molded 3/4" 90’s...



I wound up using the longer one and had to trim the short end...



And to help with installing the push to lock hose over the fittings I used a coffee cup of near boiling water to help slide the hoses on...



After all the hoses were done, I started fitting the system with antifreeze and then temporarily wired the water pump. After about 5 minutes the I stopped seeing air bubbles from the air bleed line. At that time I was pretty confident that all the air was out of the system, or at least I hope so!

More to follow...!

Once I was done with the plumbing I decided to work on the hood prop rod. This is the rod that ties between the two strut rods and supports the hood sides when you open them up. I dug out one from a parts truck also and realized the tabs were mounted on the opposite side of the rod. It’s funny all of the subtle changes you find between different models and years of Brockways. What I did realize quickly was that neither of these rods were going to fit in their factory spot with my new radiator shroud. Even my original bar was touching the upper water neck...



After my Brother and I installed the hood I did find out that I could set the hood corner right on top of the new radiator shroud. So I decided to make a small angle ‘pocket’ to hold the hood in place. This would also prevent the hood from getting scratched. With the original design I had to stick a small towel under the corner of the hood to prevent the edge of the grill shell from scraping the paint off the edge of the hood. So I started with some 1 1/2" angle steel I had along with some flat stock...



I then welded the flat stock to the bottom to create a ‘pocket’...



I then drilled a hole and chamfered the hole in order to counter sink the screw...



To mount the pockets, again I used rivnuts but this time I used some 10/32 I had left over from mounting the shift tower boot in my Dad’s 361. And here is what I wound up with...





That’s it for now!!! Stay tuned for more exciting updates!!!

Looks really good Tom! I am always blown away by your attention to detail and the high level of craftsmanship you show, even on the smallest of things like the brackets for the hood prop. Kudos to you and the rest of the Millard shop. Great job guys ! (and Maddie too!)

Always impressed by your eye for detail, excellent job guys! Look forward for your updates, they motivate me.