Could I order one? Perfect job Tom! Wish I had the brake and stretcher as I also need a new shroud.

Excellent Work!!!

Tom, You are AMAZING!! Having tools to do these projects is one thing. The knowledge to tackle it is REALLY what is GENIUS ENGINEERING. THAT IS THE MAIN TOOL IN THE SHOP!

Wish you were my neighbor! Happy Easter guys.......Brian

Great Fabrication and documentation Tom and TomCat!! One day you can give up your day job and and fabricate J-bolts and shrouds etc. Can't wart to see this build in Cortland.

Emery

Another awesome job! You guys are truly gifted with the ability to both design and fabricate !
Mike

Thanks for all the comments guys, especially about the shroud... Even when we hit some roadblocks on the project, everyones comments help keep moving us forward...

So it's time for another update...


We have been making some decent progress on the truck and I figured our next goal should be to get it running again. I still have to paint the blower and fabricate the exhaust, but there were some other things that I needed to finish as well. One of them was the lower radiator neck. If you remember a while back I mentioned that I could not get a hose to work since there was such a short distance between the neck of the radiator and the neck of the motor. So I figured I better solve this problem before we go any further (and especially since we have to take the radiator off one more time to paint the new shroud…)

I thought about making a new neck like Glen did, and I actually turned a piece of 2 1/4" pipe in the lathe, but just decided it wouldn’t work. Then I remembered that Stan gave me another lower radiator neck but it was 2 1/2" instead of 2 1/4” . I had painted it last year some time, so I dug it out and realized it was the perfect angle. So I thought about using a 2 1/2" hose with a bushing on the engine’s lower neck, but the Gates literature notes they are for emergency applications only. Since this is a really tight spot to get into and work, I decided against it. Then I remembered that Dayco had a pretty good web site that allowed you to select input and output hose sizes along with hose lengths ( http://www.accessdayco.com/Dimensional.aspx ). I was able to find 2 hoses that looked like they would work and after crossing them over to Napa part numbers, I found one of the hoses in stock at the local store. For comparison, here are the 3 hoses I had… Notice the original one and how the hose clamps were really tight to the ends of the hose…



So we installed Stan’s neck and then used a piece of solid #12 wire to confirm the distance and angle…



After I was happy with that, I compared the wire to the hose and then cut the hose…



Once the hose was cut we installed it and it worked out perfectly…



The last thing to do with the neck was drill a hole so we could install a 1” nipple for the ‘quick fill’ hose. So I picked up the correct bit and drilled the hole in the blank boss…



And then we tapped it to 1/2x14 NPT…



Then we installed the neck on the truck and ran the 1” hose. So this is one more thing crossed off the list…



I was busy with the kids on Saturday so I didn’t get back out into the garage until Sunday. Early Saturday I was able to make a diagram of the routing and sizes of the power steering hoses on the 761. So on Sunday I was able to go to our local Napa store and have the hoses made. I only had one end crimped on each hose so I could confirm the lengths (I had each one made slightly longer than needed…)



After confirming the lengths (and two more trips to Napa…), the hoses were done and installed on the truck. The #16 fitting I had for the reservoir needed a bushing so I am going to order the correct #16 to 1 1//4” NPT male fitting to replace it and clean it up a bit…



So that’s it for now!

Tom - glad the lower outlet elbow worked for you. Looks good.

Tom...

I keep checking in on the post...your work is truly outstanding...and most enjoyable.

The pictures are detailed and very crisp...hope to see it someday in Cortland...

Keep the pictures coming....

Kurt

Stan... Thanks again for the water neck... It was a huge help!

Kurt... Thanks for the nice words about the pics, we appreciate them!

So now it's time for another update!!!

Over the past two weeks we have been chipping away and some of the smaller things that needed to get done…

I had installed the pitman arm hand tight but needed to ‘press’ it on and then install the set screws (the ones that are so hard to get out…) The inside of the sector shaft is threaded for 5/8 x 18 so I found a fully threaded piece that actually came from a slack adjuster. Then I found a round disc of 1/4 steel I had laying around and drilled a 5/8” hole through the center of it. I made a quick gasket to put between the round disc and the pitman arm and then tightened it up. This worked out perfectly and drew the pitman arm in to where it needed to be. Instead of using set screws (with allen heads), I used two 5/16 x 18 cap screws. This will make life a lot easier if I ever have to take it off again…



Then I moved onto the fuel shut off valves. The gate valve handles were in rough shape and I had hard time trying to remove the center screw. So I wound up welding a washer to the head of the machine screw and then welded a nut to that. The heat of the weld broke the screw feel and I was able to remove the handles. Fortunately the local hardware store had new handles for $1.79 each, 12 spline…



I felt like working on something different so I dug out all the linkages for the throttle. There are (2) 1/2” rods and (3) 5/16” rods and (6) ball and socket ends…



So the first thing I did was make some sketches so I could remember hoe everything went back together. All the linkages were sloppy and I had to replace or rebuild them…



You can see here how wore the ends of the 1/2" rod are…



So I made a new 1/2" rod…



The lower bracket which bolts to the accessory plate with the tach drive on the back of the 671 was really sloppy, so I drilled out the holes to accept bronze bushings…



And this is what I wound up when all was said and done…



Then we moved onto the 5/16” rods. I could have sandblasted and painted them, but it was just as easy to buy a piece of new rod and thread then ends. I also picked up new ball and socket ends from McMaster Carr. There were only a few bucks each so made sense to replace the original ones that were very sloppy (and one was broke…)



And here is what we wound up with…



Then we moved onto the 1/2" rod that runs through the ‘lift’ bracket on the back of the 671. This one was also pretty tired so I made a new one as well…



After all the linkages were done we installed everything… This is a little hard to see here but you get the idea…



That’s it for now, more to follow!

I was able to drop the driver side aluminum fuel tank off at the guys house who welded our frame (my buddy Rick’s Uncle Mike…) There was a ton of work required to fix this tank and he started with repairing the return tube, then re-welding the baffle in, fixing the top mount and then welding the side back on. I forgot to give him the step with the tank but quickly remembered that I need to make a piece to fix it first…

Here is a pic of the broken step with a piece of 1/8” flat stock aluminum I had…



With the help of a jig saw, I cut out the half moon pieces…



After a lot of filing and sanding here is what I wound up with…



Since I knew the fuel tank would be done shortly I decided to finish up the fuel lines. I needed to run a #6 for the return line, a #8 for the supply line and a #10 for the cross over line between the two tanks. I had placed an order from Summit Racing earlier in the week so I had the remaining hoses and fittings I needed for the weekend. So I removed some of the new lines I installed earlier and put the other ends on them and then made the new lines as well. Within an hour we had a pile of hoses to install…



Then one by one we installed all the new hoses. These include the supply and return lines and the lines that go to and fuel filter and through the fuel pump. I also picked up a handful on large 1” x 2 1/2" line clamps off of Ebay for the power steering hoses. So this was the finished product…



Last but not least I replaced the male adapter in the power steering reservoir. I was able to buy a 1 1/2" x #16 fitting to replace the other fitting and bushing I had in there. This really cleaned things up…



That’s it for now!

Nice Tom!! (I'm running out of superlatives so I'm waiting patiently for you to screw something up! I anticipate a long wait)

Emery

Very nice Tom! Do you have the blower installed yet? I'll be glad to help you tune the engine and run the rack if you need a hand.

Truly Amazing!!

I always look forward to reading the weekly update. It keeps me moving on my project. First class work.

John G

Thanks for the comments guys!

Stan... still didn't paint the blower yet... I really need to get in gear with this!!!

So it's time for another update!

One of the last things we needed to make for the Detroit was a ‘slobber’ tank. When Stephen L. came to visit last year, he mentioned that that two 5/16” pieces of tubing (about 4” long) were like breather tubes that would drip oil. He recommended making a tank to catch the ‘slobber’ that you could drain. So on Friday night Stephen sent me a pic of the tank he made for his 318 which gave me some direction on how to make mine.

On the 671, there is a drip line on the driver side towards the front of the block and there is another drip line on the pass side towards the rear of the block. Since they are on opposite ends and sides of the block, I figured it would be best if I made two tanks. Years ago I bought an 8’ section of 3” exhaust tubing that I used on the 155W before we restored it. So I dug that out and cut two 8” sections. I also cut four 3 1/8” pieces of 16 gauge sheet metal to make the end caps.



I had this idea that I wanted ‘domed’ end caps, so using the press, a cap from an acetylene tank and one of the old bearings from the front axle, I came up with this idea…



And here is what I would up with…



Stephen recommended running #6 (3/8”) instead of the #4 (5/16”), so I went through my can of AN fittings and realized I had a bunch of 3/8” NPT to #6 hose ends. I also found most the valves I had were 1/4" NPT, so using a piece of 7/8” round stock I had, I made (4) 3/8” bungs and (2) 1/4" bungs. I also found a piece of 1/2" tubing and cut two pieces to connect the breathers to…



After drilling the holes in the 3” exhaust tubing, I started welding the bungs in the top…



And then the bung for the bottom drain…



When the bungs were done I moved onto the end caps (and I also plug welded the 1/4" hole created by the hole saw…)



When the basic tanks were done, I made two pairs of brackets to mount the tanks to the oil pan flange. The bolts are 5 3/4" apart on both sides so both tanks are identical…



I made a quick jig to hold the brackets the correct distance apart and then tacked them in place…



And this is what we would up with at the end of the day… The breather is a K&N that they sell on eBay for $16 each and I already had one so I need to buy another one. The one tank shows two fittings in it but one will get plugged. The extra fitting gives some options running the lines.



And here it is on the pass side of the truck…



We also removed the radiator and did some tweaking to the shroud it to make it fit better and drilled some additional holes to mount some line clamps for the overflow hose. Now that the slobber tanks and shroud are finished, I can finally paint the remaining parts for the motor (like the blower, bonnet, etc…)

Well that’s it for now!

Coool Tom!! I like it.

Emery

Tom, I'm going to need a slobber tank when I get to see this masterpiece in person.

Wow.. Tom what a impressive work you do!!!

Good one Paul!! I think we all share your concern.

Emery